#1926 ford king pins free#
By locking the king pin in place the spindle now is free to turn on the spindle bearing and bushings. It is important that the king pin not turn as it will wear the king pin boss and create a loose spindle. When installed and tightened thus locks the king pin in position and prevents it from turning during operation. The groove allows the king pin lock taper to seat in the v groove of the king pin. 175" wide at the threads and enlarging to about. 550" in diameter and has a v taper key groove starting about. Ford king pin locks are characterized by tapered parallel grooves that run the length of the body. First from the picture of the king pin locks they do not appear to be for a Ford. This seemed to be an interesting question so lets give it a try. That gap is about 1/2 inch high and is for the bearing and shims.Trial fit untill you have no or very little up and down play and then you are ready to fit properly.Take all tp bits again.Now fit hollow washer to the kingpin hollowside down to road,then you fit the felt washer inside the hollow,push pin into top of spindle making note of where the cotter pin cutout is.Push pin down until it is just starting to be seen through the axle then slide in the bearing and shims (shms should be betwwen the spindle and bearing not between axle and bearing.Now if you have a spare old kingpin then push this through the bottom of the spindle to line up the shims and bearing but be careful not to damage the shims as they are quite delicate.Once lined up pull the old kingpin out and push the new one all the way home whilst being carefull.Check for up and down play again.if up and down play is ok you may still have some side to side,this won't go away untill you tighten your cotter pin up.The cotter pin nut acts as a stop for your steering lock it may or may not be the correct type and you may have to make something up.I don't know if you will understand my confused explaination i know what i mean but i hope it helps you.Marq Ok the kingpins for round back up to 42 spindles are longer than the later 42-48 squarback spindles.Now first put the spindle to the axle and gently twist the kingpin into the hole ,at the bottom bush of the spindle you will notice a gap between the spindle and the axle. My point is, you NEVER know where this old stuff has been and what it has been a part of.if only they could talk!
The person that did it, certainly did a good job. You can see where an old hot rodder cut off the steering arm and re welded it back on.so the tie-rod end would be on top. Great fella! He said these were NOS (all his stuff is ) but I knew they weren't. I'm using a set of round back e in picĪs a side note, I picked up these old spindles off of the same ole guy. They certainly were longer, but not any larger in diameter. I just knew they'd fit be cause they just "looked" bigger. He showed me another set and I took them. Well, I forgot my stuff.I just happened to be that way. I went out to his house to get another set of the locking bolts. So, I thought that maybe the ole' fella that I get most of my stuff from had mixed and matched a set and put the wrong ones in. Well, the LOCKING PIN looks like to me that it drops in the hole waaaay to deep.
#1926 ford king pins install#
I've had a set of NOS king pins for a while and got ready to install them. There is more information in the tutorial as noted above, but I threw in some little details that are often missing from some instructions out there in cyberspace.I have a Superbell 4" dropped axle. Then they are reamed with a correct reamer, or if that is not avaliable, machine shops will just use a hone and keep honeing till the pins pass through, NO MORE. Once you have the old bushings removed and have the new pins in your possession, you have to press or drive in the bronze bushings in. The diameter and lenght changed slightly through the years too. That assures that the keeper slot is in the correct location. If you have to replace the king pins, get the pins for the year of ibeam/axel that you have. If you desire to keep your orignal ibeams and radius arms, bear in mind that the spindle stops changed through the years and your later spindles may not hit the axel at the right place. The ibeam pivot bushings can be a pain in the backside, and I don't see why you should replace them if they are OK. Replace the radius arm rubber bushings for sure. If the donor king pins are OK, then simple solution is to remove your current ibeam.radius arm/spindles and just swap over. Ditto the brake booster if you are going power brake route.
Get the proportioning valve, master cylinder as well, but don't pay a bundle for the MC as you will likely use it for a core anyhow. Preferrably, get the ibeams, radius arms and springs while you are at it.
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